I love this dress, seriously love it....there are a couple of fit issues that I am going to change now that its finished in the silk and I am able to see it on me but overall...wow...great pattern...now if I only I had a tan!
I had been worried about the cohesion of the different panels but it actually comes together nicely. The photos always make the colours pop a little more than they do in natural light I think and although its more obvious on the right side that there is a distinct change in pattern, it looks pretty good to me!
It was a fairly easy sew, although I will say that this is not a dress you can make entirely on a sewing machine. The front gathering needs to be very precise and it took a long time to match so that it draped properly. There were four panels joining at one point, and the only way I found to keep them together was to hand sew the layers one by one and then as a seam on the machine.
I would also recommend attaching the ruching panel to the skirt portion and sewing that into the seam but just tacking the left side to the side seam. I needed to bring mine up a couple of inches and pull it in a inch tighter in order to get the effect I was after, so it was useful to try it on and then adjust.
Its hard for me to say whether the problems I do have are design related or not. I ordered a size 42 as the 44 had not been available for months and had to do some fairly major adjustments in order for it to fit.
The biggest issue is the bust height, it looks a little baby doll and I plan on dropping the shoulder seam 1" as I think the proportions are a little off. Its actually very comfortable as is and it might just be because so much is happening around that area but I am curious to see....because of this the hem is just tacked which is fairly noticable in some of the pictures...but again I think this could benefit from being a little lower on me. I have up to 2" I can play with as I would prefer it to sit just above my knee.
I realised half way through the week that my stash of zippers and linings has almost gone and so I had to resort to a invisible zipper. I had forgotten how quickly they go in, and although I try not to use them anymore it was kind of nice! I will replace it at some point with a all purpose as invisibles break far to easily and this is a huge 22" center back seam.
The lining was a quick fix so I could see the dress complete and get some pictures done, I had just over a yard of a light champagne coloured crepe de chine that vaguely matched left in my stash but you do see it quite visibly in the neckline and will replace that and the zipper at the same time. I have some white silk on order ....
The neckline is very subtly drapped and as I didn't want to press the seam down (which would ruin the flow of the dress) the lining has to be the same colour. There is no reason to not let it slightly roll outwards, it adds to the luxe feel of the dress...all those amazing drapes of silk are just beautiful.
I'm going to have to take a week off new projects next month just to get all these old ones wrapped up as the pile is growing with all the little adjustments!
I think this dress would work for any figure but especially a hour glass....it has a lot of bust coverage and feels very secure as the back is high. I imagine Joan from Mad Men wearing it beautifully.
You need some patience and intermediate sewing experience but its not hard to piece the pattern together if you've been sewing for a while. There are enough markings and letter notations to follow easily.
I used 1.7 yards of silk charmeuse..a little more would have been better in my patterned fabric..My Valentino silk was bought at Mendel Goldberg and also used here. I needed about 1.5 yards of lining as you can remove all the pleating/gathering before cutting.
I will be making this again once I adjust the shoulder seams and lower the hem to make the fit perfect. Although it drape better in a lightweight fabric I personally think it would work well in anything from cotton to silk.
Audio book this week The Aviators Wife by Melanie Benjaman. Facinating so far...
Music- Killers Battle born..yeah baby! and Emili Sande's Our version of events as well as Next to me has been going around in my head all week long. Its so catchy..
Just stated to read In Between Days by Andrew Porter. Looking forward to getting further in, the characters are very relatable.
NEW PROJECT MARFY 2826
Last year Julia Bobbin held a Mad Men challenge to celebrate the return of Season 5 , the dresses made were stunning and she's doing it again for Season 6 which starts in April.. as well as looking after the most gorgeous of new born babies...
I ordered this Marfy six months ago as it reminded me of the dress Betty Draper wore in the episode Souviener, so this is kizmet, meant to be...I'm accepting the challenge!
For me this was a incredibly powerful scene, from 60's housewife and mother to the sexy confident woman she really was, a real reminder of the limited choices woman had back then.
I bought a hammered silk in Black and also in cream from B&J Fabrics a couple of weeks ago, its a little stiffer than they recommend for this pattern but I like the idea of a more structured dress....but have yet to decide if I will go for the little black dress or little cream dress..
I'll loosely drape them both and see what works better, as I would get use from both of them..
The snow has been and almost gone, its up to 47 degrees today and the sun is shining, its going to be a good week!
Wishing you one too...