Well the snow makes for pretty pictures at least!
and I finally finished 3182....while I love the end result and know this will be worn lots, it was a tough make.
The boucle was, of course, from Alice of Mendel Goldberg and I believe it's a C*annel..its quite lovely!
This was my original LFJ from the sew along, ..... the inside was already quilted and it was ready to put together, so I thought it would be a easy finish.
but it turns out that this needed to be a tailored jacket and not a quilted one and honestly I am pretty cross with myself for not spotting that when I decided to use it.
Without reinforced center fronts and added facings, the jacket cannot support the weight of the collar or hang correctly, the fronts just buckle's and fold.... So I ended up removing all the center front quilting and replacing it with padstitching which was a lot more work but so worth doing.
I also decided not to add the additional trim as there was so much going on already with the stripes ...and as they match from fronts through sleeves and back, it would have been a shame to break it up...of course I forgot to close all the hooks for the pictures so the stripes look like they don't match perfectly but the day it took me to do this says otherwise!
and I need to email Marfy to confirm but I think unless I have lost a piece that there is a major problem with the collar pattern.
It is 10" to short for the finished jacket, the collar matches to the front notches but ends half way around the back .....I added 5" to the back length half piece and cut on fold....
Ideally there should be a break line marked as well but there is nothing....I needed to add stay tape and mold the collar to fold properly and it was impossible to know where it would break until it was all together.
I think next time I would have the outside collar sewn to the jacket, then I would padstitch the front and collar, using stay tape to mark the break once I fitted it on me.....
but overall, this is a pattern I would highly recommed, but with the caveat that its far from a quick sew... It fitted almost perfectly from pattern, the only adjustment was 1" off the sleeve width...and I love the set in sleeve, they were so easy to do. Its a very flattering shape and the design makes it really comfortable to wear.
When I hear back from Marfy regarding the collar, I'll add a full write up to Pattern review - in case anyone wishes to make this in the future.
I have to send some serious thanks to Marfy this week.....they really are an incredible company, I was thrilled when a parcel arrived early in the week with not one but two catalogs inside.
Aside from the 2014/15 which has been my bedtime reading all week (so happy!) they also sent me the impossible to find , very sold out 2009 and its amazing... for a catalog collector like me, this is huge!
If I am honest, I always feel that I benefit much more from the relationship then they do, my sewing skills improve with each pattern, I have something to write about each week (good or bad they don't seem to mind!) and they let me host sew alongs with their blessing , so it was a very lovely and unexpected gift and I find myself grateful again for their kindness.
and btw did you see that they now have a Facebook page? I understand that this will be updated regularly, and will be very interactive...and wahoo, I got a mention :-)
MARFY 1913 BLOUSE SEW ALONG
I am really excited that I have some pictures to share already.....and I can't thank Cissie, Dagmar, Sandra, Angela and Shawn enough for sending them to me so quickly....thank you all again.
Everyone... meet Dagmar...
She says this is a wearable muslin ?! its beautiful... the fabric is a gorgeous hammered silk and there is also a matching skirt planned with the remnants, can't wait to see that!
Dagmar used all couture techniques in the construction which included thread tracing, an organza underlining for the collar, french seams, a darted slit opening, bias binding sewn by hand, and a hand gathered and pick stitched collar.
There is also a slit on the front, which I love.
and my lovely friend Cissie made not one but two stunning versions last week....
The second blouse was made using a silk georgette and I still can't believe it but she tried the geletin method and it worked. She said it made it so much easier to keep such a flimsy fabric on grain and did not make the fabric stiff at all....really who thinks of these things?!
Angela who you might know as Egwene made her blouse from a lightweight cotton batiste which she felt was slightly stiff, but I personally think it adds to the gorgeous shaping. Its a divine spring and summer top...makes me desperate for the sun!
She said in order to avoid adding additonal stiffness, she used french seams for the shoulders and machine sewed the side seams, turning under the seam allowances and then handstitching them in place leaving them soft and flexible.... she then finished up by pickstitching the undercollar.
Sandra made the most amazing animal print blouse.... it suits her perfectly....gorgeous.
Of course tonight i've been digging around in my stash to find something similar... I am so inspired by this!
She underlined both collar pieces with silk organza and machine basted them in place. Used the couture method for the back opening and a hairline seam for the shoulder seams, but found it was a bit to stiff with all that machine stitching so opted for a french seam down the sides. Hand stitched the collar closed on the inside using a wee fell stitch and for the armholes, thread stitched first then folded twice and hand stitched so it would have a flexible fall to match the fabric.
and for more info, check out Sandras blog and her amazingly wonderful weather!
and I emailed Shawn asking if I could show her blouse after seeing it on the RTW Fastners facebook....I think her choice of two contrasting fabrics are beautiful and it works so well. It adds such a layer of interest...
I keep thinking a black on black version would be a fabulous addition to my closet!
MARFY 0757 SKIRT SEW ALONG THOUGHTS
I had planned on starting the sew along on Thursday but tomorrow we have our second snow storm of the week arriving with the added bonus of freezing rain, and another storm due on Sunday......
and as my internet is proving unreliable at best right now, its probably safer to plan for Monday the 10th. I'll re- arrange the schedule tomorrow and put it in the SAL menu above, with a link to the skirt Pinterest board..
So......I've spent a week or so thinking about skirts and what I want from a pattern and came to the conclusion that for me a great fitting waistband is the most elusive thing of all...
I thought it could be interesting to spend some time on lots of techniques options for that perfectly fitted waistband as well as focusing on underlinings, handstitching vs machine, side seams to princess and perfect vents.
and interestingly, incorporating some or all those methods really gives you a much bigger choice of fabric options, from lace applied by hand to a quilted boucle skirt.
but on Monday we are starting with the star of the show, the faithful muslin! I will also have some examples and fabric suggestions as well as a list of supplies.
Please keep sending pics of your finished blouses, they are so great to see...
Wishing everyone a lovely week